One of the wonderful things that modern electronic digital and film cameras give you is many high-tech options for your image making. One of the horrible things they give you is many high-tech options for your image making.

Sometimes, confusion ensues. And, very often, confusion starts with the camera’s modes. Not all manufacturers label similar modes the same way. Some say shooting modes when they really mean drive modes, others say exposure modes which can also mean metering modes. Confused yet? Can we not all get along and standardise this?

If you haven’t done so already, I recommend reading my articles on aperture, shutter speed and ISO for background on how exposure works. It will help these modes make sense.

Final note: when I say proper or correct exposure, remember photography is art. If you prefer brighter or darker than the camera’s suggestion to suit the mood, that is your call.

Modes

Luckily, the core exposure modes are basically the same across brands. The basic modes are: Programmed Automatic, Shutter Priority, Aperture Priority and Manual. They are usually abbreviated P, S, A and M. Canon users will see P, Tv, Av and M.

These are generally selected on a dial, or via a mode button plus a control wheel. In short, they control how the camera sets aperture and shutter speed, or lets you do it.

Programmed Auto - Program Mode (P)

The camera chooses both shutter speed and aperture for what it thinks is the best exposure. It won’t usually change ISO or fire flash automatically. Some brands add Program Shift so you can nudge the pair towards faster shutter or narrower aperture without leaving P.

Aperture Priority (A or Av)

You pick the aperture, the camera picks a matching shutter speed. Great for controlling depth of field or sticking to your lens sweet spot. How you change aperture varies by brand - dial on the body or ring on the lens.

Shutter Priority (S or Tv)

You pick the shutter speed, the camera sets the aperture. Ideal for freezing action with a fast shutter, or showing motion blur with a slow one.

Manual Mode (M)

You set both shutter and aperture. Essential in tricky light - night shots, long exposures, flash work - or whenever you want full control.

Mode limits to watch

• Too bright for shallow depth of field - in Av at f/1.4 on a sunny day, the camera may hit its fastest shutter and still overexpose. Use a lower ISO or add an ND filter.
• Too dark to freeze action - in Tv at 1/1000s indoors, the lens may be wide open and still underexpose. Raise ISO, slow the shutter, or add light.

Check your manual for how your camera warns about over or under exposure - often a blinking value or Hi/Lo message.

Speciality and scene modes

Many cameras include extra modes that also tweak ISO, white balance, sharpness and more. Details vary by brand:

• Full Auto - camera handles everything, often including ISO and pop-up flash.
• Flash Off - as above but flash is disabled.
• Portrait - prioritises shallow depth of field, may smooth skin tones.
• Night Portrait - balances flash with a slower shutter to keep background light.
• Landscape - aims for deeper depth of field and often boosts colour.
• Sports - prefers fast shutter, usually disables flash.
• Macro - optimises for close-ups. Behaviour varies by brand.
• Custom modes - save your favourite settings for quick recall.

Final thoughts

Which mode should you use? The one that helps you make the picture you want. There is no shame in using automatic modes. Swap modes as the scene changes and experiment. No single mode suits every situation - just remember to double-check your mode before you head out. You probably don’t want Grand Canyon shots in Night Portrait mode.